Looking for a neck serum? Osmosis Affirm MD is a peptide serum made for the face, neck and upper chest. Here is what is in it, what "Neck & Face Lift" on its box means, how to use it, and who should check first.
What is in Osmosis Affirm MD?
Affirm MD is a 30 mL serum for ageing skin from Osmosis's MD range, sold through skincare professionals. Skin consultation recommended.
Alongside three peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl hexapeptide-12), it contains hydrolysed collagen, niacinamide, squalane, the amino acids lysine, proline and glycine, Swertia chirata extract, and plant and essential oils.
Peptides are short chains of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins, and what a cosmetic can claim for them is limited to how skin looks. Schagen 2017 — Topical peptides review
What does "Neck & Face Lift" mean?
It is the name printed on the box. On a skincare serum, "lift" describes how skin looks: firmer and smoother along the jaw and neck. It is not a structural or surgical effect.
Australia's rules draw the same line. Cosmetics are for changing how skin looks, keeping it clean and in good condition, or protecting it. In the TGA's example, "helps skin look firm" is a cosmetic claim, while "improves skin's internal structure for firmer skin" is a therapeutic one. TGA — Cosmetics or therapeutic goods (PDF)
What can a neck serum realistically do?
A 2017 review found little human research for many cosmetic peptides: some studies were tiny or one-offs, some never reached scientific journals, and some tested peptides mixed with other actives, so the results couldn't be pinned on the peptide. Where it gives numbers, the studies of the three peptides in Affirm MD involved 10 to 60 people. None of them tested Affirm MD. Schagen 2017 — Topical peptides review
Better Health Channel says cosmetic creams can help disguise wrinkles, but the effect is temporary, lasting a day or so. UV from sunlight is the major factor in skin wrinkling in Australians, and daily sunscreen is the most effective thing you can do to prevent wrinkles. Better Health Channel — Wrinkles
Osmosis makes Affirm MD to help the face and neck look firmer and smoother: a step alongside sunscreen, not a substitute for it.
Cancer Council recommends a broad-spectrum, water-resistant SPF 50 or 50+ sunscreen every day the UV index is forecast to reach 3 or above: about a teaspoon for your face, neck and ears, plus a hat that protects your neck. Cancer Council — Preventing skin cancer
How do you use Affirm MD on your face and neck?
The box says to apply it liberally where you want it, or mix it with other serums. In a routine:
- Start with clean skin.
- Mist your face with an activating mist such as Boost, as Osmosis suggests (see our post on mists).
- Massage 2–3 pumps into your face, neck and upper chest (Osmosis's suggestion).
- Mist again if you'd like it to glide more easily.
- Finish with moisturiser if you need it and, in the morning, sunscreen.
Who should check before using it?
- If you have a nut allergy. Affirm MD contains sweet almond and apricot kernel oils and ethyl macadamiate, an ingredient made from macadamia nut oil. EU CosIng — Ethyl macadamiate Skincare can contain food allergens, sometimes listed by botanical name, so check with your doctor before using it. Allergy & Anaphylaxis Australia — Cosmetics containing food allergens
- If fragrances have bothered your skin. It contains essential oils of eucalyptus, ginger, lemongrass, rose and bergamot, and fragrances and plants are among the causes of allergic skin reactions. healthdirect — Contact dermatitis Try it on a small patch, such as your inner upper arm, a few times a day for several days; a reaction can take one to three days to show. DermNet — Allergic contact dermatitis
- If you avoid animal-derived ingredients. It contains hydrolysed collagen, which the EU's cosmetic ingredient database describes as animal-derived, so ask us before you buy. EU CosIng — Hydrolyzed collagen
When to see your GP or dermatologist
See your GP if you notice:
- a new spot, or a mole or freckle that changes in size, shape or colour, bleeds, itches or looks different from the others. Telling normal sun damage from a sign of skin cancer can be hard, so when in doubt, ask your GP. Cancer Council — Check for signs of skin cancer
- a rash, swelling or blisters after using a new product. Stop using it, and see your doctor if you're worried, if it isn't getting better, or if you also feel unwell or have a fever. healthdirect — Contact dermatitis
Our pigmentation guide explains which changes in skin colour need a medical check before any cosmetic care.
What can we talk about at Melbourne Wellness?
Affirm MD is part of the Osmosis MD range, so we recommend a skin consultation before you start. At an advanced skin analysis appointment we can look at your skin and routine with you and talk about whether a face and neck serum belongs in it.
Questions you might bring:
- Is a separate neck serum worth adding?
- How do I fit Affirm MD around my other serums?
- Which sunscreen will I happily wear on my neck every day?
For more, see skincare routine order and a spring skincare review.
