Weighing up Osmosis Calm vs Correct, or wondering where Renew MD fits? All three are serums built on retinal, a form of vitamin A, and they differ mainly in strength. Here is how they compare, how to start gently and step up only when your skin is ready, and what to know about sun and pregnancy.
Osmosis Calm vs Correct vs Renew MD: how do they differ?
Retinal (retinaldehyde) is a form of vitamin A used in skincare, alongside retinol. DermNet — Topical retinoids
All three come in 30 mL with the same box directions: 1–2 pumps on clean skin, morning and/or evening, then an Osmosis activating mist and a moisturiser if needed.
- Calm (Gentle Retinal Serum on the box). Osmosis calls it its gentle vitamin A serum, and the box lists ageing, sensitive, irritated and dry skin. Alongside the retinal are gotu kola (asiaticoside), willowherb, sea buckthorn and feverfew extracts, niacinamide and panthenol.
- Correct (Preventative Retinal Serum on the box). A step up from Calm, listed for ageing and dry skin and an uneven-looking tone. Its formula includes sodium hyaluronate and two peptides, and Osmosis counts seven antioxidants in it.
- Renew MD (Advanced Retinal Serum on the box). Osmosis's highest-strength retinal, listed for ageing skin and an uneven-looking tone, with three peptides, niacinamide and ectoin. It is part of Osmosis's MD range, sold through skincare professionals, so a skin consultation is recommended before you start.
Which one should I start with?
Any vitamin A cream can cause what researchers call a retinoid reaction: itching, burning, redness or peeling, usually in the first few weeks. Mukherjee et al. 2006
Calm is the gentle one, and the only one of the three whose box lists sensitive and irritated skin. Correct is a step up, and Renew MD is Osmosis's highest strength. Which suits you depends on your skin and the rest of your routine, so it is worth talking through before you buy.
However you start:
- Try a new serum on a small patch of skin first, and add only one new product at a time. DermNet — Sensitive skin
- All three contain essential oils for scent, such as bergamot, grapefruit or lavender, and fragrances are one of the things that can cause allergic skin reactions. healthdirect — Contact dermatitis
- If your skin stings, peels or stays red, use the serum less often. Mukherjee et al. 2006
- Wear sunscreen every morning (more below).
When, if ever, should I step up?
You don't have to. In research on prescription vitamin A creams, higher strengths caused more irritation, so a stronger serum is only worth considering once your skin is comfortable with the one you use. If a stronger serum leaves your skin uncomfortable, the usual advice is to go back to a gentler one, and to stop if even the gentlest doesn't suit you. Mukherjee et al. 2006
If you are thinking about Renew MD, we recommend a skin consultation first, so we can look at your skin and what you already use.
What about sun and pregnancy?
Vitamin A creams can make skin more sensitive to the sun, especially at first. DermNet — Topical retinoids Mukherjee et al. 2006 None of these serums is a sunscreen. Use a broad-spectrum SPF 50 or 50+ sunscreen every morning when the UV index is 3 or above, with clothing, a hat, shade and sunglasses. Cancer Council Australia — Preventing skin cancer
MotherSafe, the NSW medications in pregnancy and breastfeeding service, says tretinoin, a prescription vitamin A cream, should not be used in pregnancy. Its factsheet does not mention retinal. If you are pregnant, breastfeeding or planning a pregnancy, check with your doctor, pharmacist or MotherSafe before starting a retinal serum. MotherSafe — Skin care in pregnancy and breastfeeding (PDF)
When to see your GP or dermatologist
See your GP or dermatologist if:
- a reaction blisters, swells or spreads beyond where you applied the product, or isn't settling after you stop using it healthdirect — Contact dermatitis
- you have a rash and feel unwell or feverish healthdirect — Contact dermatitis
- you have eczema and want to add vitamin A, as these creams can make eczema worse by drying the skin DermNet — Topical retinoids
- a spot, mole or freckle changes in size, colour, shape or thickness, or a crusty sore isn't getting better healthdirect — Sunscreen
Prescription vitamin A creams are medicines, so ask your GP or dermatologist about those. DermNet — Topical retinoids Our sensitive-skin guide explains when irritation needs a medical check.
What can we talk about at Melbourne Wellness?
At an advanced skin analysis appointment we can look at your skin with you, go through your routine and products, and talk through whether a vitamin A serum fits, and at what strength. Our menu also includes an in-clinic Osmosis vitamin A infusion.
Questions you might bring along:
- Which strength suits my skin and routine?
- How often should I use it at first?
- What should I do if my skin stings or peels?
- Which sunscreen will I happily wear every day?
New to vitamin A? Our guide to vitamin A serums: retinal, retinol and how to start explains the different forms. For more on routines, see how to review your skincare one step at a time and finding a comfortable routine for sensitive skin.
